Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the Director of Wine at Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar.
It seems curious to me that I’ve never written about a brand-new Washington state winery before now. After all, I’ve been writing about wine in these pages for a number of years—please don’t ask how many. In that span of time, literally hundreds of new wineries have opened in this state. So why haven’t I told you about them as soon as I hear of them? My reasons have varied. It’s possible that I was reluctant to recommend a whole winery based on just one year’s production
(always beware of the flash in the pan). Or, perhaps I just wasn’t sufficiently impressed with the wines—or the pricing. All that has changed with my recent discovery of Grand Reve Vintners in Kirkland, an exciting new boutique winery focusing on wines drawn from the Red Mountain region outside of the Tri-Cities. Not only are the wines impressive and well-priced for their class, but also they have a real track record of quality—sort of. Here’s the story: a few years ago a fellow by the name of Paul McBride decided he wanted to create a world-class winery in Washington. Focusing on Red Mountain, he partnered with Ryan Johnson, vineyard manager for Ciel du Cheval and several other top vineyards, and they acquired vineyard land, planted it, and then set about finding five experienced, award-winning winemakers. The theory was to have collaboration between finance, top grapes and exciting young winemakers.
To make their first wine, a Bordeaux-style blend that’s Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, they partnered with Ben Smith, winemaker at Cadence Cellars. Ben has earned a deserved reputation for elegant, balanced wines using grapes from Red Mountain. He may have produced his best wine yet in the 2005 Grand Reve Collaboration I ($55). It is rich and powerful, yet displays a polish and harmony that’s rare in “big” wines. Decanting for an hour or so helps the wine show all that it has, which is a sure sign that mid-term cellaring would be a good idea. Ross Andrew Mickel makes the 2006 Grand Reve Collaboration II ($45).
This may be my favorite of the three wines released so far (though only by a hair). Based on Syrah, it almost has the feel of a French wine with a smoky/gamey/toasty note running through the ripe, rich, dark berry fruit core. It is truly impressive with 30 to 60 minutes of breathing, and tastes like a more expensive wine. Ross has made more than a few impressive wines under his own label after working at a number of fine wineries, including Chaleur Estate, Rosemount in Australia and Betz Family in Woodinville. I’ve been particularly impressed by his Cabs and his Syrahs. The 2006 Grand Reve Collaboration III ($45) is also a Syrah, but the style is different. Here the emphasis is definitely new world, with a bold, toasty oak note and an intense fruit component that’s showy and seductive. It’s immediately pleasing and cries out for a big, thick, grilled steak. It’s made by Mark Ryan McNeilly, famous for his Mark Ryan wines: Dead Horse, Long Haul, Wild-Eyed Sarah and Crazy Mary Mourvedre. His Grand Reve offering is at least as fine as any of those wines. Yet to be released are Grand Reve wines by Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei and Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery. My brief taste of Carolyn’s wine, a bold Merlot, was exciting, and Chris Gorman’s wines always please. I’m looking forward to tasting both of them at length, and all of the upcoming Grand Reve offerings. All of these three are difficult to find—production runs between 166 and 268 cases—but look for them because they’re that good.
