Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the Director of Wine at Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar.
With the number of Washington wineries ever on the rise, it is no surprise that most of us are in the habit of asking, “What’s new?” whenever we visit our favorite wine shop or look for a recommendation from a restaurant sommelier. In the process, we
too often forget about the original boutique wineries and the earliest appellations—the ones who started it all. This brings me to Chinook Wines, a tiny Yakima Valley producer that has consistently turned out elegant, finely-balanced wines in Prosser since 1983, the year the Yakima Valley was established as Washington’s first appellation. Chinook has developed nice symmetry by working exclusively with Yakima Valley fruit—some of it from their own estate vineyard. The owners of Chinook are Kay Simon and Clay Mackey. Kay is the winemaker and Clay is the viticulturist managing the grapes and vineyards. They married in 1984, just two days after releasing their first Chinook wine, the 1983 Sauvignon Blanc. I sold that first release because it was so delicious and exciting. Over the intervening years I’ve enjoyed and recommended countless Chinook releases, and my customers approve.
The Chinook style is understated, with much less oak apparent in both the whites and the reds. Kay and Clay firmly believe that the Yakima fruit they work with is so good that it’s best just to let it shine through, with a modest bit of wood to add complexity. The results are particularly fine partners of certain foods, which may explain why a number of better restaurants here in the Seattle area like to feature the wines. The list includes Rover’s, Dahlia Lounge and The Herbfarm. They, like me, appreciate both the quality and fine value Chinook wines represent. Here’s an overview of my favorites:
2007 Chardonnay ($18). I thoroughly enjoy this Chablis-like version of the grape (the real French Chablis) for its pure fruit flavors and balance. The grapes are “old vine,” drawn from two family vineyards, which may account for the deep flavors. It’s barrel-fermented in the classic tradition, but the oak is subdued by most standards. Kay recommends this one with grilled shrimp or sweet pepper pasta. 2006 Semillon ($15). If you need an example of why Washington state semillon is so highly-regarded among wine writers, look no further. With a bit of oak to complement the green fig and lightly herbaceous quality of the fruit, this is a great choice for Asian dishes or recipes that show off cilantro. 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($17). There’s a 10 percent infusion of semillon in this classic combination from Bordeaux. You’ll find hints of citrus, pears, herbs, minerals, gooseberries and more in this wine. Kay suggests pairing it with seafood and fresh herbs—I love it with tomatoes or pasta with fresh tomato sauce.
2007 Cabernet Franc ($22). This may be my favorite wine from Chinook. It has a deliciously pure taste of the grape—berries, cherries, anise and fresh herbs—that remind me of some of the best (and much more expensive) Cabernet Francs from France’s Loire Valley. Of course, they’re called Chinon over there. Very little oak is used here, so pair this with marinated beef stew or salmon with a blueberry salsa, according to Kay. 2007 Cabernet Franc Rose ($15). This wine is pretty much sold out everywhere, but look for the 2008 in June. I’ll recommend it without having tasted it—Kay is that good of a winemaker and every previous vintage has been outstanding. Look for light, fresh strawberry fruit, crisp acidity and fine length. Sit on the porch and enjoy with anything. If you haven’t tried Chinook wines before, consider this your invitation to try some special wines. Definitely be sure to visit Chinook when you’re in wine country. They’re open weekends and by appointment at 509-786-2725—I told you they were small.
