Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the Director of Wine at Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar.
Many of you may know young Ben Hammerschlag, Australian wine importer par excellence. After all, he was the head of the wine department at Bellevue’s downtown QFC for a couple of years in the mid-’90s. Noticing how much his customers enjoyed the wines from Down Under that he was recommending, Ben
developed an even deeper appreciation for Australian wines. The problem was that back then, there were relatively few truly great old-vine Shirazes available. Ben knew there were more out there, in the Barossa Valley, McLarenvale and many of the other wine regions of South Australia that had vineyards planted back before the First World War. In 1999, alone and self-funded, he went looking for them. After a long flight to Australia—trust me, it’s a very long flight, indeed—the 28-year-old visited wine shops in Adelaide and bought thirty-six bottles of Shiraz he’d only heard about. Back in his modest hotel room, he set about tasting them. He immediately got on the phone, and started tracking down the winemakers whose efforts most impressed his young palate. On that first trip, he signed three top-flight producers who are still the backbone of his portfolio of wines: Charles Cimicky, Langmeil and Penny’s Hill.
This was the beginning of Epicurean wines. In subsequent years, he added many more impressive wineries, including Epsilon, Glaetzer, Kaesler, Mr. Riggs and widely recognized Woop Woop. It’s an impressive, and quite delicious, collection. The wines have garnered a lot of attention and positive comments from the national press—including Robert Parker, Wine Spectator, Gourmet Magazine and the Today Show. Searching for new additions to the Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar, I’ve recently tasted through many of the wines. Here are a few of my favorites:
2006 Epsilon Shiraz (Barossa Valley, $19): Lovely and rich, this wine has focused blueberry and blackberry laced with sweet spice and touches of pepper. It’s a seductive wine, with toasty oak notes in the nose and on the palate, leading to a soft, smooth finish. And it’s a fine value in this price range.
2006 Glaetzer “The Wallace” Shiraz-Grenache (Barossa Valley, $23): Ben Glaetzer gained his reputation with blockbuster wines such as Amon-Ra and Mitolo, so we know he’s a good winemaker. Under the Glaetzer label, he specializes in old-vine Shiraz from the Ebenezer region of the Barossa—arguably the best part of the valley. The vines for this blend range from 65 to 90 years old, and it shows in the depth of flavor and complexity on display here. The bad news is that the 2006 is nearly gone, though well worth seeking out. I’m eagerly awaiting the 2007.
2007 Heartland Stickleback Red (South Australia, $10): Ben Glaetzer is also involved in the Heartland group of wines—a lineup that represents excellent value. I particularly enjoyed this blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto and Grenache. Soft and spicy, with generous berry fruit and a light earthy note, it’s versatile enough to pair with everything from hors d’oeuvres to fish to cheese.
2006 Kaesler “Stonehorse” Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre (Barossa Valley, $17): The Kaesler Vineyards date back to 1893, but it wasn’t until 1997 that winemaker Reid Bosward noticed the power and intensity of the grapes being grown there. You’ll notice it too in this blend of red Rhone varieties that’s often seen Down Under. It’s so popular that it’s usually reduced to an abbreviation—GSM. The Kaesler version is more complex and layered than most, with earthy, smoky notes running alongside the sweet, ripe berry fruit. Delicious!
2006 Slipstream Grenache (McLaren Vale, $22): This wine is not really from a winery at all. Ben uses this label when he runs across particularly good grapes or wines that don’t otherwise have a home. Working with his winemakers, he’s able to create great wines at great prices. In this case, he found Grenache growing on a steep hillside of 70-year old vines. The wine is rich, supple and smooth. Sweet oak adds nuance to the ripe, slightly peppery fruit flavors of the grape. It’s a lot of wine for the money.
By this time you’re probably getting the idea that there are a lot of great wines coming from Ben’s company, and you’d be right. “Epicurean Wines” on the back label is as certain a guarantee of quality as you are likely to find.
