Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the Director of Wine at Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar.
It’s that time of year again. Ready your holiday palates because here is my wine version of Neiman Marcus’ Christmas Book—all the bottles you’d love to give or receive as gifts this holiday season. And if you’re entertaining, your guests will quickly ask for another glass if you open one of these. 2008 Rotie “Southern White” (Washington, $24.99)—this small, exciting new winery is turning out delicious wines in the style of the Rhone Valley of France. This lovely blend of 50
percent Viognier and 50 percent Roussanne is scrumptious, rich and creamy with ripe fruit character balanced by mineral notes. Don’t look for oak on this one—it’s all about lush yet balanced fruit. I like the 2007 Rotie “Southern Blend” (Columbia Valley, $34.99) even better. Patterned after a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this robust blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is bursting with black fruit flavors, spice and pepper, a touch of earth and smoke. While big and bold, it is still smooth and supple in the mouth. For value, quality and excitement, these Rotie wines are the best new wines I’ve tasted in a long time.
2007 Evening Land Pinot Noir “Seven Springs Vineyard” (Willamette Valley, $46.99)—another new winery, this one is Burgundy-oriented, working exclusively with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Some of their wines come from Oregon’s Willamette Valley and others from the Sonoma Coast in California. Whatever the source, these are some of the most outstanding Pinots and Chards I’ve ever tasted from this country. But be warned—these are very French in style, elegant and balanced and long. These are definitely not in the heavy oak, fat and
sassy school of winemaking. Use the “Seven Springs Vineyard” as your introduction, and then explore the others, all the way up to the stunning $150 bottles. I always drink more bubbly from Thanksgiving to New Year’s than any other time of the year. This year I’ll be savoring N.V. Billecart Salmon Champagne Brut (Champagne, France, $39.99, regularly $54.99). This smaller, high-quality négociant produces stylish, polished wines, full of fruit yet dry, with the classic yeasty notes that make Champagne such a distinctive wine. While it’s a solid value at the regular price, it’s a stunning value at the holiday season special pricing. If you prefer a domestic sparkler, consider the California classic, Schramsberg. I recently tasted the 2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc (California, $29.99) and was reminded how fine these wines really are. With light toasty notes, ripe apple fruit, and a touch of yeast, it is a perfect aperitif wine. The bubbles are correctly small and persistent, and the finish long and dry. If you haven’t tried Schramsberg before, or haven’t tasted it in a while, make this the season you revisit these lovely wines. Another old friend that I revisited in recent days was the N.V. Bollinger Champagne Brut “Special Cuvee” (Champagne, France, $59.99). It was a delightful reunion because the wine is so good. The style is richer, meatier than either of the two sparkling wines above, with a creamy, ripe character that lingers lushly on the palate. It proves again why Bollinger is one of the classic names in Champagne. Sip a few of these over the next few weeks and your holidays will be special indeed. Cheers!
