Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the Director of Wine at Grand Cru Wine Shop and Bar.
As we relish in these long summer days, many of us are also busy at the barbecue. Thus, it becomes incumbent upon me to write my annual summer wine guide.
2008 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc (California, $13). What a great wine for sipping while the coals get hot. Joel Gott is a fine winemaker, and he has a strong belief that good wine doesn’t have
to be expensive, so his offerings invariably represent excellent value for the dollar. You’ll see that when you taste this lively, bracing, dry white. Look for citrus, especially grapefruit and gooseberry notes. This will pair deliciously with any shellfish, tomatoes and herbs, or goat cheese.
2007 S. A. Prum “Essence” Riesling (Mosel, Germany, $12). Too many of us are afraid of Riesling, and that’s a shame because it’s one of the world’s great grapes, especially when it comes from Germany. The trace of sweetness you’ll find here is beautifully balanced with crisp acidity. With no oak used, the essential flavors are Granny Smith apples and lime. It makes a refreshing, lower-alcohol aperitif that should please anyone who gives it a try.
2007 Hess Selection Chardonnay (California, $10). Donald Hess has been producing impressive wines in Napa Valley since 1986, when he acquired the old Christian Brothers site. His introductory Chardonnay has long been a great value, combining solid fruit with just a touch of oak. Look for apples, citrus, spice and a light hint of toast.
2007 Daniel Bouland Morgon “Vieilles Vignes” (Burgundy, France, $22). Warm weather is the perfect time to enjoy lighter reds with less oak and lower alcohol, wines that can even take a light chill—I advise 30 minutes in the
fridge, or cellar temperature at 55 degrees. Beaujolais is one of my favorites for this purpose—heaps of fruit, all strawberry and cherry, supple texture and no oak. It’s the kind of wine that matches fish or meat equally well, and Morgon is one of the very best villages in Beaujolais, perhaps the best. I think of it as “poor man’s Burgundy.” Warning: I’m on a mission to convert Americans to Beaujolais so be prepared.
2007 Grochau Cellars Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Ore., $20). Finding good-tasting Pinot Noir at a moderate price is a real challenge. Too often they are thin, over-oaked or both. John Grochau has managed to turn out a lovely, silky wine at a very reasonable price. It shows charming fruit that really tastes like classic Pinot—no small accomplishment for 20 bucks.
2006 Windmill Estates Zinfandel “Old Vine” (Lodi, Calif., $11). Zinfandel, on the other hand, is no light-weight red, at least not the way Windmill Estates does it. Dark, ripe and full, this is serious red wine for barbecue and grilled steaks. Made by the Michael David folks in Lodi (oh, Lord!), it’s the entry level of
Zinfandels that include 7 Deadly Zins, Earthquake Zin, and Lust and Gluttony Zins. You get the idea. The innocuously named Windmill is easily the best buy.
2006 The Show Cabernet Sauvignon (California, $12). Another great buy is this joint project from Charles Bieler of Cháteau Routas in the south of France, Roger Scommes, grape grower, and Joel Gott of California. Sometimes called the “Three Thieves,” they believe that delicious wine need not be expensive (see Joel Gott Sauvignon above). This classic California Cab is juicy, perfectly oaked, and oh-so-drinkable. Look for berry fruit, spice, earth, toast and a fine finish. The fun labels are a bonus—they are designed by Hatch Show Prints of Nashville, the folks who have long done the posters for the Grand Ole Opry. There are three different ones in each case. Collect them all.
This batch of wines should get you through the sunny times in great shape. Enjoy!
