Here in the Evergreen State we make certain sacrifices. For all our temperate weather and rugged natural beauty, we miss out on the brilliant contrast that marks seasons in the Midwest and the East Coast. For example, nothing awakes that almost instinctual feeling of preparing for a winter like seeing every tree shed its greenery in a delicate colorful shrug.
There’s no better place to experience the fall season than history-rich New England, when the foliage bursts in a rainbow of bright orange and red hues. October is the perfect time to fly to Boston, rent a car and meander through small towns and back roads on a “leaf-peeping” hunt. The following is a tour itinerary for capturing the best views during this special harvest season, while also touring some of the region’s historic attractions. Located 20 miles west of Boston, Concord has a long history—it was incorporated as the first inland settlement in Massachusetts on Sept. 12, 1635. As the scene of the first battle of the American Revolutionary War, on April 19, 1775, it is considered the birthplace of the nation.
In the mid-18th century, Concord was home to some of the greatest literary minds in the United States, including Henry David Thoreau, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Bronson and Louisa May Alcott and Nathaniel Hawthorne. Discover why these great minds were inspired in this picturesque New England community by strolling from the city center to Minuteman National Historic Park, where the “shot heard ’round the world” was fired. In additional to admiring the leaves, be sure to attend the 20-minute program about America’s first soldiers that includes a musket-firing demonstration by a costumed ranger. Other
Walden Pond
informative programs, as well as guided tours of the park, are also available. At the Concord Museum, view Paul Revere’s lantern from his famous “one if by land, and two, if by sea” signal, Thoreau’s humble desk on which he wrote his books, and other American Revolution relics and beautiful period rooms. Also, Walden Pond sits only a short drive away, where Henry David Thoreau lived from July 1845 to September 1847. Thoreau’s experiences at Walden Pond provided the material for his book “Walden.” The 102-foot-deep glacial pond is surrounded by undeveloped woods totaling 2,680 acres—the ideal setting in which to view colorful fall leaves. Walk the natural trail around the lake and see the spot in the woods where Thoreau built his house.
Classic bright yellow foliage on a country road
Some of the most amazing views of the leaves are experienced while driving on scenic back roads. From Concord, skip the freeway and meander west in Massachusetts on Route 119, stopping at a small town or two along the way to visit a local fruit stand to stock up on fresh New England apples and admire the pumpkins. At every bend, you’ll see gorgeous yellows, oranges and deep reds in the trees hugging the road. Head north into New Hampshire on beautiful Route 63 to Route 12, driving alongside the largest river in New England to Hanover. Hanover is a quaint town located on the west side of New Hampshire in the scenic Upper Connecticut River Valley. The idyllic, tree-lined Dartmouth College campus is a don’t-miss attraction for leaf hunters. Established in 1759, Dartmouth is one of the eight prestigious Ivy League institutions. When President Dwight Eisenhower visited the Dartmouth campus in 1953, he is said to have commented, “This is what a college ought to look like.” Retire for the evening at the charming and historic Hanover Inn (603-643-4300, www.hanoverinn.com), which was founded in 1780 and has rooms overlooking the Dartmouth campus.
From Hanover, cross the river into Vermont and drop south to pick up Route 4 heading west. Stop for a hidden treasure at Quechee that overlooks “Vermont’s Grand Canyon,” the Quech Gorge. Looking straight down into the vibrant, intense colors of the changing leaves is, pardon the pun, gorgeous. Down the road, head north on U.S. Route 7, known as one of the most scenic drives in all of New England. Be sure to explore at least one of the many small antique stores that line the road. Save time in the afternoon for a visit to the Shelburne Museum (802-985-3346, www.shelburnemuseum.org) located just south of Burlington. This fun stop is one of the nation’s most diverse and unconventional museums of art and Americana. More than 150,000 works are exhibited in a remarkable setting of 39 exhibition buildings, including barns, a meeting house, one-room schoolhouse, lighthouse, jail, general store, covered bridge and the 220-foot steamboat Ticonderoga. Children will especially like the Toy Shop with working American Flyer toy trains and the Circus Building, which includes a miniature circus parade and an operating vintage 1920s carousel.
Arrive in Burlington, Vermont’s largest city and settle in at the charming Willard Street Inn Bed and Breakfast (800-577-8712, www.willardstreetinn.com), which is an 1880s Victorian mansion furnished with authentic antiques and serving gourmet breakfast. Located on the eastern shore of Lake Champlain, between the Adirondack and Green mountains, Burlington offers a cosmopolitan flair coupled with a stunning natural beauty—perfect to enjoy the fall colors.
One of many classic covered bridges provide beautiful photo opportunities
Take a stroll, window-shop and eat dinner on Church Street, a pedestrian mall lined with boutique stores and a variety of restaurants. The next morning, take the ferry across Lake Champlain to upstate New York. After two lane roads, put the pedal to the metal and take I-87 south to Saratoga Springs. From north to south, the autumn trees present a spectrum of colors—varying from completely brown to crisp oranges and yellows, along with some lingering green leaves. If you’ve only been to the Big Apple, Saratoga Springs will show you a whole different side of New York. This town, with a population of about 26,000 residents, has long been a premier vacation destination with world-famous horse racing and award-winning golf.
Quechee Gorge
The National Trust has named Saratoga one of “America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations for Historic Preservation.” Saratoga National Historic Park commemorates the site where the United States won its first Revolutionary War victory in 1777. The park is made up of three units, all just a short drive from Saratoga: the four-square-mile battlefield; the General Philip Schuyler House, which offers a glimpse into colonial life; and the Saratoga Monument, built to commemorate the site where British General John Burgoyne surrendered. There is also a visitor center at the battlefield, where you can ask for information about the best spots to experience the local leaves. Looking for a quaint lodging option? The Fox ’n’ Hound Bed and Breakfast (866-369-1913, www.foxnhoundbandb.com) is a beautifully restored inn in downtown Saratoga built in 1904. Head early to Hattie’s restaurant (518-584-4790, www.hattiesrestaurant.com) for a lively dinner of Southern and Louisiana cuisine. Last year, Hattie’s famous Southern fried chicken even won the “Throwdown with Bobby Flay” on the Food Network.
No leaf-peeping tour of New England would be complete without a trip to the Massachusetts Berkshires. Drive south on
I-87 and cross the western border back into Massachusetts on I-90 (Massachusetts Turnpike) to visit Norman Rockwell’s home in the lovely village of Stockbridge. If you’re a fan, don’t miss the nearby Norman Rockwell Museum (413-298-4100, www.nrm.org), which includes more than 570 paintings and drawings and the artist’s original studio. Complete with easel, brushes, books and furnishings, the studio stands today much as it did during Rockwell’s lifetime.
If you want to explore the Berkshires for a few days, stay in one of Stockbridge’s historic inns or charming bed-and-breakfasts. During the fall foliage season, accommodations require multinight minimums and reservations well in advance. Otherwise, drive east on Route 23 to Route 20, paralleling I-90, to enjoy the multicolored fall grandeur on your way to Brimfield, home to the largest outdoor antique show in New England. Stay the night in one of the Sturbridge area’s many bed-and-breakfasts, which are located in cottages, carriage houses or colonial inns. For the final day of your leaf-peeping tour, put on walking shoes and take the
Old Sturbridge Village public transit
morning to experience Old Sturbridge Village (508-347-3362, www.osv.org) in Sturbridge, Massachusetts, where visitors come face-to-face with some of the events that shaped life from the late 1700s to the early 1800s. The village is modeled after a country town, complete with mills, shops, homes, meeting houses, a district school, farms, native trails and, of course, costumed actors. After lunch, drive back to Boston before heading home to enjoy the equally beautiful, albeit less colorful, fall season in the Northwest. For more information about New England leaf peeping, visit www.foliagenetwork.com, which gives foliage updates on the Northeast, Southeast and Midwest twice a week between September and November.
