Does the idea of a Napa in the north sound like a dream come true? It’s not a dream. British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley has a growing reputation for producing wines that rival the world’s
finest—a reputation that helped earn the region a spot on Frommer’s list of “Top Travel Destinations for 2007.” The Okanagan Valley is undoubtedly at the top of many local wine enthusiasts’ list of favorite destinations as well, not only due to the region’s exquisite wine, but also to its proximity: it is just four hours from Bellevue by car during the summer and about six hours during the winter. (Alaska Airlines also offers five daily flights from Seattle to Kelowna, the valley’s largest town.) Following is our guide to squeezing the most out of this wine lovers’ paradise.
Tucked between the Cascade and Monashee mountains, 100 miles east of Vancouver, the Okanagan Valley is an arid 155-mile expanse of rolling hills, lakes, orchards and, increasingly, vineyards. It comprises four major towns: Kelowna, Penticton (home of Ironman Canada), Vernon and Osoyoos. Thirty years ago, the Okanagan Valley was known mainly for its plump, succulent fruit, especially apples, which thrived in the area’s warm temperatures
(often the warmest in Canada during the summer) and fertile soil. The valley’s first winery, founded in 1932, produced—what else?—apple wine. A few years later, the winemakers experimented with making wine from local labrusca grapes (think grape jelly), but not surprisingly, they weren’t thrilled with the results. Most popular wines, including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, are made from vinifera grapes, which aren’t native to the Okanagan Valley. But in the 1980s, the Canadian government devised a forward-thinking idea: what if the Okanagan Valley’s abundant labrusca vines were pulled up and replaced with vinifera vines? A bold government-sponsored plan made this idea a reality. Today, the vinifera vines are thriving, and so is the region’s wine industry, as shown by the ever-increasing number of wineries. In 1988, there were only about a dozen wineries in the valley; today, there are more than 50, helmed by winemakers from as far away as Europe and New Zealand.
Red Rooster Winery in Penticton
Part of the Okanagan Valley’s successful cultivation of wine grapes has to do with its unique microclimates, which are warmer in the south and cooler in the north. In the south (where 70 percent of the region’s wine is produced), Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Savignon, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and big, bold Bordeaux-style blends take center stage. Don’t miss Burrowing Owl Estate Winery (250-498-0620; www.bovwine.ca) for a memorable glass of Merlot and an equally memorable meal. Overlooking Burrowing Owl’s 125 acres of picturesque vineyards, The Sonora Room restaurant showcases local producers through a menu replete with organic produce, seasonal fruits and artisan breads and cheeses. A guest house, aptly named The Guest House, on the premises provides lux overnight lodging. Also worth visiting is Blue Mountain Vineyards (250-497-8244; www.bluemountainwinery.com), a family-owned winery since 1971 that produces low-sulfite wines and sparkling wines in the French tradition.
In the north, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc, as well as Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, are the hot wines to taste. Drink in the scenery with your tasting at Mission Hill Winery (250-768-7611; www.missionhillwinery.com), where a six-year redesign and expansion, inspired by Western European design and led by Seattle architect Tom Kundig, included the addition of an outdoor amphitheater and a 12-story bell tower housing bronze bells handcrafted in Annecy, France. At The Terrace restaurant, guests can book the Chef’s Table package, which includes a private, guided winery tour and tutored tasting of three select wines, followed by a seven-course wine-and-food pairing menu featuring locally grown ingredients (a party of between six and 10 is required). Though only a handful of wineries are mentioned in this article, throughout the valley you really can’t go wrong no matter which wineries you choose to visit. And, there’s no trouble finding transportation to shuttle you from one winery to the next, as widely advertised wine tours are a popular option.
The Okanagan Valley is a four-season destination, thanks to water activities during the summer, skiing during the winter and golf on 11 courses. But the months from May to October offer the best selection of fresh fruits and vegetables, foods which this part of British Columbia is known for. No matter when you visit, there is a good chance that a wine festival will be happening. The region has four major wine festivals, held in the spring, summer, fall and winter. The biggest is the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, which will take place from Oct. 2-12, 2008.
Predator Ridge Gold Resort in Vernon
Billed as “the only wine festival in North America that takes place during the heart of grape harvest,” it features vineyard tours, local foods, wine education and, of course, tons of wine tastings. Make hotel reservations for this event early, as they fill quickly. There are several fine hotels in Osoyoos, just north of the Washington border, as well as a wide variety of bed-and-breakfasts throughout the region.
Mission Hill Family Estate in Kelowna
There’s no question what type of wine the Okanagan Valley is best known for: ice wine. Invented in Germany in 1794, this sweet wine, which comes in both red and white, is made by leaving grapes on the vine through a frost. When the frost breaks, the ice granules on the grapes are infused with sweet fruit essence and are quickly picked and pressed. Most Okanagan wineries have their own variety of ice wine—but be prepared to spend upward of $50 for one of the tall, skinny bottles. Two wineries that consistently produce award-winning ice wine are Jackson-Triggs Vintners (800-665-2667, www.jacksontriggswinery.com) and Inniskillin Vineyards (250-498-6663, www.inniskillin.com), both located in southern Okanagan. Next to the Okanagan Valley lies the Similkameen Valley, a high-elevation valley that runs east from Osoyoos to the town of Princeton, with similar weather and soil conditions. Though there are less than 10 wineries in the Similkameen Valley to date, watch for this number to increase in the coming years as more
winemakers practice their craft there. Currently, the predominant varietal produced in the valley is Merlot. For more information about wine, lodging, restaurants and events in the Okanagan Valley, visit www.okanagan.com.
