Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the owner of La Cantina Wine Merchants.
Last month I introduced you to some of the best wines in the world, rare and exciting Cabernets from California. The only thing
wrong with the wines was their price range: They are expensive. In December, holiday time, when we’re inclined to indulge others and ourselves with the best, such wines make perfect sense. Now, in January, when we’re tightening our belts, figuratively and otherwise, we need something a little different. Thus my list of moderately-priced wines for this month’s article. They come in various colors and flavors, from different parts of the world. The only thing they have in common is great value.
2005 Pignocco Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marches, Italy, $10)—“Pignocco” is the brand name, but Azienda Santa Barbara is the producer, and they craft a tasty wine in the modern style on the Adriatic coast of Italy. Many folks think of Verdicchio as thin, almost sour stuff—not bad with shellfish, perhaps, but not something to relish. It was a bit like old-style Muscadet from France. But just as Muscadet has evolved for the better, so has Verdicchio. The new version, so well represented here, is richer and riper, with lovely fruit flavors backed by bright acidity, dry and unoaked. Try it with a rockfish fillet, perhaps with an herbed tomato sauce. 2004 Dom. des Deux Anes (Corbieres, France, $10)—Corbieres is a region in the southwest of France, long known for
producing tasty wines when many of their neighboring wine regions turned out plonk. The grapes are traditional in the Rhone Valley/Languedoc area: carignane, grenache, syrah and the rest of the 13 approved varieties. They make a great combination: a bit earthy, a bit fruity, a bit spicy. You’ll find touches of plums and olives, a hint of smoke and game. It’s an enticing blend—try it with a simple roast chicken with herbs (under the skin) and garlic (stuffed in the cavity). Incidentally, an ane is a donkey in French; where the two donkeys come in I can’t imagine.
2005 Novellum Chardonnay (Roussillon, Southwestern France, $10)—Roussillon is normally thought of as red wine country, but this deliciously distinctive white has changed my thinking on that particular cliché. And it’s done it by the very subtle use of a bit of viognier, added in an unusual fashion. The wine is made by Domaine Lafage (Mas Durand) using only chardonnay grapes fermented in stainless steel. But after that primary fermentation the wine is poured over the lees of their viognier, some of which has botrytised on the vine. The fruitiness of the viognier and the richness of the botrytis create a wine of unusual complexity, perfect for seared salmon fillet on a bed of herbed couscous with a brown butter sauce. 2006 Terre di Sol Sangiovese (Sicily, Italy, $10)—Some of the most exciting wines coming out of Italy these
days can be found in Sicily. Producers there are always experimenting with new grapes and new techniques to craft wonderful, and wonderfully distinctive, wines. Sangiovese is not exactly a new grape in Italy, of course, but it’s new to Sicily; and I doubt you’ve ever tasted one quite like this version. It’s very New World, ripe and sweet, with plums and Bing cherries on the palate, and a soft, almost fleshy mouth feel. And the finish surprises with its length—it’s an impressive package, especially for the money. Pair this with boneless pork chops seared with rosemary, served with a mustard-laced red wine sauce. 2005 J.C. Pask Merlot (Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $15)—I’m not a big fan of Merlots, most of them anyway. But I must confess to enjoying this version, from an unexpected source. What entices me about this wine is the combination of Bordeaux-like notes, especially in the nose—kind of leafy and herbal—with a riper fruitiness, a generous berry and sweet cherry aspect. The mix is topped off with a sweet, spicy oak component. Combined with a soft, smooth texture, it makes for a very seductive wine. Who knew you could find this in New Zealand Merlot? It’s a versatile wine that will harmonize equally well with red meats, white meats, or even seafood.
2005 Iris Hill Pinot Noir (Oregon, $15)—I love Oregon Pinot Noirs. Unless they’re over oaked. Or too tannic. Or if they’re lacking fruit. Or so extracted that they taste more like cabernet or syrah than pinot. Or too expensive, which accounts for far too many of them. And then we have
delicious wines like this Iris Hill: pretty, polished, balanced. The fruit is delicate but pure, classic and lingers in the soft finish. The oak-barrel ageing is apparent but not dominant, a pleasing addition, not the first thing you smell nor the last thing you taste. It’s just tasty, satisfying pinot, delightful sipping on its own or matched with a broiled chicken breast served with an herb vinaigrette. So there you have my half-dozen recommendations for January—
delicious wines at delicious prices—enjoy!
