The annual four-day party that begins on the Friday before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent—dates back to ancient Greek and Roman times, when people celebrated the coming of spring by throwing parties where they donned masks and danced in the
streets. In the Middle Ages, the Catholic Church tried to suppress the celebration on the grounds that it was pagan. When the people refused to give it up, the church responded by incorporating Carnival into its calendar as a period of thanksgiving. Later, the tradition spread to the New World. Today Carnival is held in many countries, but the liveliest, most well-known celebrations take place in Brazil. It may be too late to plan a trip for this year, when Carnival will happen Feb. 2 to 5, but you have plenty of time to make your plans for next year’s Carnival on Feb. 21 through Feb. 24, 2009. Rio, known as “the Capital of Carnival,” isn’t the only place to join in the festivities—most cities in Brazil have their own unique celebration, reflecting the country’s diverse cultures. On the following pages are descriptions of Carnival in four Brazilian cities, as well as tips for planning an unforgettable trip.
In Rio, Carnival centers on samba music and dancing; the highlight of the festival is the parades orchestrated by the city’s many samba clubs. Each club works for months to prepare for the event, first choosing a theme (such as “Love and Peace”) and a theme song, and then creating elaborate, feathers- and sequins-drenched costumes and floats. The bigger schools have thousands of supporters, who help make their floats and other parts of their displays. The most spectacular Carnival parade takes place in the Sambadrome,
a half-mile-long pathway built specifically for this purpose in 1984. At the end of the path, each school has about an hour to dance and perform to pulsating samba music for the judges and nearly 100,000 excited spectators, with the goal of winning the champion title.
The Samba Parade is broadcast live in many countries, but there is nothing quite like witnessing it in person. For a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience, consider ordering a costume in advance and marching in support of an
assigned samba club, or riding atop its float; visit www.riocarnival.net for information. Sambadrome spectator tickets can also
be purchased through the Web site, starting at around $59. In addition to the spectacular samba-club
parades, Rio is also known for its exuberant parties—both in the streets and at more formal venues. Outside, the streets overflow with parades of people, no doubt inspired by the samba clubs, singing, dancing and having fun to samba music. Inside, elegant costume balls are held at five-star hotels throughout the city, drawing tourists from all over the world. The two most famous balls are hosted by the luxury hotels Copacabana Palace and Gloria. Most balls start at around
11 p.m. and last until dawn.
The first Brazilian capital, Salvador was once Brazil’s principal port for the African slave trade, and African culture and music is a huge part of the city’s heritage. At perhaps no other time is this African influence more apparent than during Carnival—a music-filled celebration lasting longer than the usual four days (the celebration kicks off with an all-night beach party on the Wednesday before Ash Wednesday). All week long, bands of drummers called Afro blocos march through the streets banging out African rhythms, dressed in African-inspired outfits—a Salvador tradition. (A bloco is a group of people who parade together in samba costumes.)
Competing with the Afro blocos for volume and attention are the trios elétricos, lively groups of performers and bands that travel the streets on moving stages loaded with thousands of watts of sound equipment. The stages blast a unique type of music born in Salvador in the 1970s—axé music, a fusion of different Brazilian and African genres. The trios create and
perform original axé songs for each year’s Carnival.
The trios’ moving stages are surrounded by supporters, dressed in traditional tuniclike costumes, on foot, who dance their way through the streets. Tourists and locals
alike can purchase tickets to
accompany one of the trios—an option that offers relief from the throngs of revelers crowding the streets, because security guards rope off and escort each trio. Catering and restrooms are also provided. Whether you choose to join a trio or not, be sure to wear your dancing shoes and to bring earplugs if you have sensitive ears.
Though the distance between Recife and Olinda is less than a half-mile, these two cities are a study in opposites. Recife, the fourth largest city in Brazil, is busy and modern, aside from a small historical core. Olinda, on the other hand, is slower-paced and has largely maintained its 17th-century architecture and charm (in 1982, its historical core was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Differences aside, during Carnival the neighboring cities merge together for one enormous party. According to
the “Guinness Book of World Records,” since 1995
Recife has been the home of the biggest Carnival bloco, known as Galo da Madrugada. This record-setting group is truly home-grown—it formed in 1978 with 75 people surrounding a truck that carried a giant rooster! The mascot remains, but today the procession has grown to an
estimated 2 million people partying to 31 trios elétricos. Recife and Olinda are like all Brazilian cities in that music is the focus of their Carnival festivities. In Recife, music stages are set up all over downtown and throughout the city. In Olinda, much of the partying takes place in the hilly streets, which are filled with music at night. Unlike the samba music of Rio and the axé music of Salvador, it is frevo—an eclectic blend of music that originated with the indigenous cultures of Brazil—that fills the air in Recife and Olinda. Local music schools bring their traditional rhythms to the streets every night of Carnival and during the four weekends leading up to the event.
Be prepared for breakouts of spontaneous (and good-
natured) water wars if you choose to join in the fun.
• Carnival is peak travel season in Brazil, for both tourists and locals. Make sure to plan your trip, including booking
a hotel room, well in advance.
• Expect rate hikes of as much as 50 percent during Carnival. • Comfortable clothing and good walking shoes are essential. • Expect most Brazilian offices and businesses to be closed during the festivities. • Wear sunscreen to protect your skin from the strong Brazilian sun. • Street food is a big part of Carnival, but avoid stands that look unhygienic. • Drink a lot of water to keep hydrated. • Wear a money belt and keep valuables and keys in a secure pocket not easily picked. • Carry ID and the address of where you are staying with you at all times.
