Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s contributing wine columnist and the owner of La Cantina Wine Merchants.
Dear Santa, Looking back over the last year, I think it’s fair to say that I’ve been a pretty good boy. I’ve tried to find interesting new wines for
my customers and readers without breaking the piggybank. And I’ve tried to steer folks away from wines that have too much oak or alcohol—and you know how hard a job that is these days. Yes, I was a little bit bad with that trip to Burgundy in March; decadent, you might even say. But how else was I going to pick the best bottles of 2006 and 2007? The fact that I had to taste all those old grands crus is beside the point. At least that’s how I look at it. Apart from that one detour into expensive wines, I’ve tried to concentrate on the good-value stuff. This is hard to do given the condition of the dollar, but I keep making the effort. So how about it? Have I been good enough to get something better than a lump of coal in this year’s stocking? If I have, I’d like to mention a few wines that would constitute my gift list. I’ve even made it easy by concentrating on wines from right here in Washington—think of all the energy you’ll save bringing them to me. Perhaps the most exciting phenomenon in local wines is the plethora of simply delicious offerings based on the Syrah grape. This variety seems to have found a very special home in our vineyards, producing wines with tremendous flavor intensity and smooth, satiny texture. Below are a few favorites I’d love to see under my tree on Christmas morning. You don’t even have to bother wrapping the bottles.
2006 Betz Family Winery Syrah “Cote Rousse” (Red Mountain, $62). Winemaker Bob Betz has crafted another stellar wine that is dark, concentrated and complex. Almost black in color, it displays layers of berry and cassis fruit blended with spice and smoke notes. Deep and powerful, as you would expect from Red Mountain fruit, it benefits from spending an hour or two in a decanter before serving—or a few years in the cellar. Better yet, open one now and then cellar several more bottles for the future. As with so many Betz wines, this one has garnered unusually high scores from national wine writers, but don’t hold that against it.
2006 Betz Family Winery Red “Besoleil” Red (Columbia Valley, $49). I’m cheating a bit here—this wine is mostly Grenache, with only a bit of Syrah in the mix (along with Mourvèdre). But the flavor profiles are remarkably similar, as all of us who’ve confused Syrah and Grenache in blind tastings can attest. There’s a certain affinity between the two that complements each other in blends around the world. Syrah is the dominant grape of the northern Rhone wine region of France, while Grenache dominates the wines of the southern Rhone. Besoleil is full of ripe, sweet fruit—you may think of concentrated raspberries, laced with spice, pepper and smoke. The finish is long, and the body is full and fleshy. Again, some decanting is in order here. 2006 Darby Syrah “Destiny Ridge Vineyard” (Horseheaven Hills, $30). Yes, it’s another brand-new, tiny Washington winery. Winemaker Darby English has fashioned a smooth and supple version of Syrah, this time with lovely blueberry notes touched with sweet spice and oak. Silky mouth-feel and an impressive length add to the enjoyment. While you’ll have to search hard for this one because the production is so small, it’s well worth the effort.
2005 Sequel Syrah (Columbia Valley, $55). Part of the Long Shadows group, the assembly of world-famous winemakers working with Washington vineyards, I think you’ll find more than a hint of Australian Shiraz in this outstanding wine. This is not altogether surprising when you know that the winemaker here is John Duval, famous for producing the legendary Grange at Penfolds in Australia. The Sequel is supple, rich and long—showing dark, concentrated fruit touched with spice and pepper, and a judicious touch of sweet oak. It’s just plain delicious and far too easy to drink. 2005 Sparkman Syrah “Stella Mae” (Red Mountain, $40). Producers of miniscule quantities of wine in Woodinville, Sparkman Cellars has impressed me with both their Cabernet and Syrah. With the 2006 bottles already released, this wine is hard to find but worth it. Look for spice and pepper, blueberry fruit, and a sweet touch of oak. Smooth and lush, it’s just what I look for in Washington Syrah. How about three bottles of each, Santa?
