In this age of globalization, “getting away from it all” is becoming more and more difficult to do. However, if you’re seeking an unspoiled tropical paradise off the beaten tourist track, look no further than the Cook Islands—a collection of 15 small islands spread over about 850,000 square miles in the heart of the South Pacific. You won’t find high-rise hotels or Cabo-style nightlife on these idyllic tropical isles, which have a total population of about 19,000. What you will find is a rich and varied Polynesian culture, bountiful water and other leisure activities and maximum relaxation. Below are descriptions of three of these beautiful islands: Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Atiu.
RAROTONGA Visitors to the Cooks fly to Rarotonga, the islands’ capital and the center of government. The Rarotonga airport provides access to the other islands—but this lovely isle is certainly worth lingering on. Only about 20 miles in circumference, it features high mountain peaks, lush rain forests and amazing beaches. A reef almost completely encircling the island harbors a peaceful lagoon; beyond the reef, the turquoise ocean beckons. Most visitors spend their days immersed in the amazing water, in one way or another. Local outfitters offer
Post Office
a variety of water activities, including wind- and kite-surfing, sailing, glass-bottom boat tours, snorkeling, diving and game fishing. Land exploration takes places via two main roads: Ara Tapu, which circles the island, and Te Ara o Toi, an older inland road. You can hire a guide to show you around or strike out on your own via a rental jeep, car, motor scooter or bike. For an unforgettable guided tour, turn to the legendary Pa, who offers vigorous nature treks with amazing views (note: you must be in good shape to keep up with Pa!). Animal lovers will want to visit the designated conservation area to the southeastern end of the island, which was established to protect the islands’ native plants and birds, such as the Rarotonga monarch.
Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers a bustling commercial center with shopping, banks, cafés and accommodations. Visit the Cook Island Visitor Information Centre in Avarua for an overview of the many options for island fun and adventure. It’s open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday through Friday, and from 9 a.m. to noon on Saturday.
AITUTAKI Aitutaki—a remote, scenic island measuring about 12 square miles—is a popular spot for day trips, as well as for longer stays. It combines a relaxed atmosphere with a bit of nightlife, including some of the best native music-and-dance shows in the Cooks. Located in a triangle-shaped lagoon, Aitutaki is surrounded by many lovely “motu” (small islands). A lagoon cruise is a highlight of any stay there. Available from a number of tour operators, the cruises generally include lunch and opportunities for passengers to snorkel with colorful fish and explore neighboring islands. Visitors to tiny One Food Island can purchase a one-of-a-kind memento for a small fee: a passport stamp from the local post office. Outrigger canoes are another method for exploring the lagoon. Aitutaki’s reef offers wonderful diving, with wrecks, caves, coral and abundant sea life. Local dive outfitters offer dive courses, dive trips and rental equipment. Saltwater fly-fishing for fighting bonefish is another popular water activity.
On land, locals offer walking and driving tours of the island. Hike to the top of Maungapu, the island’s highest hill, for a postcard-worthy view of the lagoon. For a sense of Aitutaki’s history, visit the “marae” (pre-European religious meeting grounds) that dot the landscape. Aitutaki has accommodations to suit every budget. At the deluxe end of the scale is Pacific Resort Aitutaki (www.aitutaki.pacificresort.com), which, like the Bellevue Club Hotel, is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The 27 breathtaking beachfront bungalows, suites and villas, and delicious South Pacific cuisine served at Rapae Bay Restaurant, might entice you to extend your visit.
ATIU Atiu, the third largest island in the group, is a rugged destination that welcomes, yet doesn’t cater to, tourists. The fertile island features beautiful white sand beaches, dramatic caves and cliffs and a small, shallow lagoon, and is surrounded by a raised coral limestone reef called a “maketea.” The four main villages—Areroa, Tengatangi, Mapumai and Teenui—are grouped together on a
Aitutaki
central plateau. The best way to get around is via a road extending for about 12 miles around the island’s perimeter. Shade-giving canopies of trees make it a pleasant walk. Touring the caves embedded in Atiu’s maketea is a popular activity. In most cases, you’ll need to hire a guide. Don’t miss Anatakitaki Cave, a spacious vault spectacularly adorned with stalagmites and stalactites that is home to thousands of tiny birds called kopeka, which live and nest in its total darkness. Another cave worth visiting is Raka’s Cave, 15 chambers that the Rakanui family called home for generations.
Pearls
A highly recommended day trip from Atiu is Takutea, a sanctuary about 50 miles to the northeast. The sanctuary was established to protect the breeding sites of numerous exotic birds, such as the white-capped noddy and brown bobby, which visitors can photograph and observe in their natural habitat. Shopping on Atiu is limited, but many villagers make and sell interesting crafts and other products. These include traditional fiber art made of tapa cloth; tivaevae, a type of patchwork quilting; and high-quality ukuleles carved from the wood of local trees. A clean, comfortable place to stay is Atiu Villages (www.atiuvillas.com), a collection of chalet-style villas, each with a private veranda, made almost entirely of local timbers from mango, coconut, acacia, java plum and other tropical trees. Kura’s Kitchen, the restaurant on the premises, serves locally caught seafood, delicious salads and more.
Be sure to try the top-notch local coffee and, if given the opportunity, the “tumanu,” a bush beer made from imported
yeast, sugar hops and malt, or bring some home to share a taste of the exotic Cooks with a friend. For more information about planning a trip to the Cook Islands, go to www.cook-islands.com.
