Thomas Cottrell is Bellevue Club’s wine consultant and the owner of La Cantina Wine Merchants.
It doesn’t happen every time, but it occurs often enough: Washington Wine Month rolls around and I suddenly feel old. Very old. Quantifiably old. As in ... when I first discovered Washington wines, almost 40 years ago, there was only a handful of wineries in the state. None
of them made wines that you or I (or most other folks) would want to drink. Then along came the first Associated Vintners releases (now Columbia Winery) and the earliest Chateau Ste. Michelle offerings. Suddenly there was hope. Twenty years later—1988—there were 80-some wineries (depends on how you count them). An impressive increase, but almost 20 years after that—today, for instance—there are more than 400 wineries in Washington. Scary, huh? It is for me. I used to know them all; maybe you did too. These days I discover a new Washington winery about twice a week. I’m working awfully hard just to keep up—and I’m in the business. I can’t imagine how consumers keep from being totally confused. I’d like to help, but this article turns out not to be the time or the place. I’ve tasted some new releases from new wineries lately, but haven’t liked them as well as some old favorites. Next week it will be different. But, for this year’s Washington Wine Month, the result of a blind tasting, I offer:
2002 Columbia Winery Chardonnay “Otis Vineyard” (Yakima Valley, $20)—some vintages of this single-vineyard wine have been overoaked (to my taste). This version is impressive for its balance, with a toasty front end, citrus notes, and a mineral component that reminds me of a fine Chablis (the French ones). As a final proof of quality, it has a fine, long finish—always the mark of an impressive wine.
2004 Novelty Hills Chardonnay (Columbia Valley, $16)—(okay, I cheated—this is a relatively new winery). Wine consultant Mike Januik continues to impress me with the wines
he turns out under his own name, and under the Novelty Hill imprimatur as well. Tasted blind, this wine showed charming fruit, tempered with a judicious use of toasty oak. Round and creamy, it had a moderate finish and a high satisfaction ratio. This is the fourth time I’ve picked a Novelty Hill Chard as a favorite in a blind tasting.
2002 Apex II Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley, $16)—the group of 10 tasters got this one right—they agreed with me. We all recognized the ripe, sweet fruit on display, the vanilla oak and spice, the fine balance of acid and tannins that made this wine a candidate for another sip—or another glass. The impressive length was another mark of fine winemaking—this time by Brian Carter.
2002 Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserve” (Columbia Valley, $33)—this was my second favorite Cabernet in this blind tasting: impressively dark color; sweet, ripe fruit in the nose, touched with noticeable spice; an almost fleshy, mouth-filling texture; medium tannins and a soft finish. As tasty as it was, it seemed a bit simple—wish I could have spent more time with it to see if it would open up. I suspect it would.
2002 Sagelands “Freddie’s Blend” Red (Columbia Valley, $10)—is a very flavorful amalgam of this and that, showing classic rich Washington fruitiness wrapped in a supple, smooth package. Nitpickers might find it a bit simple, but it’s very pleasing in this price range. A great summer barbecue or sipping wine.
2005 Hogue “Genesis” Riesling (Yakima Valley, $10)—Washington state first established its wine country credentials with riesling. In the intervening years the reds have come to dominate our thinking, and received rave reviews nationally too. But every now and then, I run across a truly delicious example of riesling that reminds me of what all the fuss was about back then. This wine is a classic: floral/fruity in the nose with a palate that adds slatelike minerality
and citrus notes. The great thing about this wine is the balance—the trace of sweetness poised against bracing acidity and the lingering finish tell you just how good this wine is. Use as an aperitif or serve with a fish course topped with a fresh fruit salsa. I could come up with a lot more local wines to tempt you, but space is running out. Don’t let that stop you—get out there and try more of what our Washington vintners are up to. And don’t let the end of Washington Wine Month stop you. There’s enough goodness out there to keep you busy all year long.
