Eighteenth-century English Romantic poet Lord Byron christened it “Pearl of the Adriatic.” While staying here in 1929, Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw assumed the role of impromptu spokesperson when he termed it “heaven on earth.” Fast-forwarding to the present, actor John Malkovich really gets away from it all when he stays at his summer home here. Looking from its storied past toward a future bright
as the
sunshine reflecting off the famous city walls, the
Croatian coastal city of Dubrovnik has played muse to acclaimed artists and—more recently—low-profile travelers alike. This southern Dalmatian-coast city is an Adriatic gem to be sure, as well as an ideal extended stop for cultural enthusiasts exploring Mediterranean Europe by sea or land. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization classifies Dubrovnik as a world heritage treasure, for good reason. The city has everything for the well-rounded traveler: what many consider the best city walls in Europe, ancient Italian architecture, lavish palaces and formidable churches. Dubrovnik is literally set in stone, from the medieval walls to ancient streets to modest homes. A stone’s throw away, the Adriatic Sea’s deep blue waters beckon water-lovers as well as landlubbers
in search of a view. Outside the city walls, Croatia’s countryside ripens from its diverse landscape and long history. Rich vegetation, beautiful lakes, rare islands, white pebble beaches and the sapphire sea all make exploring this region an unforgettable experience for every visitor.
In many ways, Dubrovnik symbolizes both rebirth
and perseverance. Heavily damaged during the region’s civil conflict of the early 1990s, Dubrovnik has been fully restored to its former, non-shell-shocked state. While history may lead us to believe otherwise, Dubrovnik and Croatia have made a full recovery from civil war. Like their nation, Croatia’s people are welcoming and generous to those who come from around the world to visit their “comeback country.” Tourism has also come back, now making up 16 percent of the nation’s economy. Less than 15 years since it came under attack by Serbs and Montenegrins, today Dubrovnik tops Croatia’s tourist destination pop charts.
More than 10 million tourists visited the coastal settlement in 2005, and tourism projections for this year are expected to surpass that figure. Most of Dubrovnik’s guests are Europeans, but according to frommers.com, Americans’ trips to Croatia jumped up 39 percent from 2004 to 2005. The Croatian National Tourist Office predicts a 5 to 8 percent increase in U.S. visitors this year. Croatia is currently petitioning entry into the European Union, which would increase accessibility even more.
The Walls and Water Dubrovnik’s two most obvious attractions are its city walls and the sparkling water over which they tower.
The mighty stone walls guard a portion of the Old City for about a mile and one-quarter, and were built between
the eighth and 16th centuries to defend it. Walkers can peer from 15 lookout towers and five bastions positioned along the walls. The beautiful Old City encircled within the walls shows what medieval citizens toiled so hard to protect. The city’s Cathedral treasury, another favorite attraction, contains religious treasures such as a segment of the Holy Cross from Jerusalem. Dubrovnik’s synagogue is the second oldest in Europe.
The region’s former dictatorship days are preserved
via the Old City’s Rector’s Palace, constructed in the 15th century. The architecture for this former seat of government combines Gothic and early Renaissance styles, and the palace today houses a museum with furnished rooms, historical exhibits and baroque paintings. Dubrovnik
was among the most advanced cultures when it came to medical care of its citizens, and boasts a working pharmacy that has been dispensing medicines since 1317. Hopefully, Croatian health authorities pay careful attention to expiration dates. Croatia’s southern coast is a study in diversity with its many glittering bays, pebble beaches, steep cliffs and densely wooded islands. Every coast-lover can find a style to soak up the sun, from luxurious resorts to undeveloped outcroppings of land surrounded by blue water. The part of the Adriatic Sea belonging to Croatia is regarded as one of the top diving areas in the world. French oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau once said that the underwater world around Dubrovnik was one of the most beautiful he had ever seen in all the years of his diving excursions. Divers off Dubrovnik can explore sites such as a very well preserved wreck of a German torpedo boat, a wreck of a merchant ship, and underwater island walls with caves and red coral reefs. On the sea’s surface, active vacationers choose from canoeing, sailing, fishing and kayaking, or head to one of the region’s rivers for rafting alongside the many waterfalls. For the active traveler who prefers to stay on land, Croatia and Dalmatia have a strong mountaineering and trekking tradition, with many challenging climbs and hikes for the taking.
The Mediterranean Diet Croatian food hasn’t really flavored the international culinary scene, so a visit promises gastronomic exploration. Most of Dubrovnik’s more than 60 restaurants comply, serving up the local flavor. A majority of dining establishments offer traditional Dalmatian recipes or Croatian continental fare, with a small side dish of internat- ional cuisines represented. The cuisine of Dalmatia and the islands is considered very healthy, even setting the trend of modern nutritional norms. Most entrées are cooked by
broiling or grilling, and chefs include on their menus plenty
of fish, olive oil, vegetables and locally grown herbs found near the sea. With Dubrovnik’s proximity to the sea, outstanding seafood is a given. Of its traditional meat dishes, prosciutto is especially well-prepared: pork leg smoked and dried, served with sheep’s cheese and cured, salted olives, capers and onions. Lightly boiled vegetables are also a favorite dish, spiced with olive oil and wine vinegar, or served with meat. Local beverages include wines crafted from indigenous grapes, Prosek (a sweet dessert wine) and herbal brandies.
The Main Events Dubrovnik’s tourism peaks in summer and fall, when the warm weather inspires lounging by the sea, but the region’s Summer Festival may also have something to do with fully booked hotels. From its inception in 1950, Summer Festival has grown to be the most recognized cultural event in
Croatia. The festival combines music, theater and dance
that attracts an A-list of international performers to both the indoor and open-air stages of the city. An up-and-coming festival in Dubrovnik is The Masquerades, held at the beginning of February. In recent years the Dubrovnik Masquerades has become a foundation of winter tourism, along with the city’s New Year’s celebration. For the Masquerades, people of all ages dress in costume and fill the central area of Dubrovnik with their revelry and disguises. As tourism grows in Dubrovnik and Croatia as a whole, more festivities may begin filling in what are now blank calendar days. The answer very likely lies beyond the Adriatic horizon.
Croatian Information Travel opportunities in Croatia and Dubrovnik include organized tours, Mediterranean cruises and solo travel. For more information on travel within Dubrovnik and Croatia, visit these Web sites: