For centuries, Italy has attracted
kings, scholars, saints and poets, but in recent years there has been an amazing influx of curious visitors coming to delight in the country’s rich cultural heritage
and enjoy the sweet life. This is the country that inspires imagination, passion and rebellion. For many
travelers, it is a dream destination, conjuring images of rolling Tuscan hills dotted with villages and olive groves, Roman ruins of Pompeii and charming seaside towns. Whether your escape includes shopping in Milan, examining churches and
museums or basking in the sun on the Riviera, you
will nonetheless sample a pleasurable lesson in living and a healthy respect for local foods and traditions. There are so many places in Italy worth seeing, it can be overwhelming.
Some areas are less frequented than the must-see and often crowded cities of Florence, Venice and Rome. Fortunately, day excursions can
easily take you to these remote regions whose architecture, parks, mountains and beaches will allow you to catch your breath, relax and enjoy a more leisurely pace. Bellevue Club member Kim Mylroie and her sister Margo spent three weeks last spring touring parts of Italy. She has shared some photos of favorite places she visited on her recent trip to this alluring country.
MILAN & BEYOND There is no better place to begin a tour of Italy than at the thriving metropolis of Milan. As Italy’s principal financial center and one of the haute couture
Bellevue Club member Kim Mylroie in Venice
fashion capitals of the world, you can just feel the vibrant and enthralling energy throughout the city.
Its spiritual hub, the Duomo is a magnificent Gothic cathedral (the third largest church in Europe, after St. Peter’s in Rome and Seville’s cathedral) begun in 1386 but not
finished until 1813. Inside, the church is simple, majestic and vast. Outside, a lift takes you to the roof with a spectacular view that stretches as far as the Alps on a clear day. The façade is currently under scaffolding while restoration takes place over the next two years. The recently restored Piazza del Duomo is lined on two sides with porticoes, where Milanese of all ages and styles love to gather. To the north is the entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Italy’s oldest and most elegant shopping mall. This four-story arcade is full
of boutiques, bookshops, bars and restaurants. At the other side of the Galleria is the Piazza della Scala. This is
the site of the famed La Scala opera house, which has recently been opulently restored. The Museo Teatrale alla Scala is also now housed at La Scala. For a break from sightseeing and a taste of more contemporary Milanese life, stroll down Via Monte Napoleone. This is the most elegant shopping street in Milan, where
you will find all the star names of Italian fashion—Armani, Moschino, Valentino, Romeo Gigli, Prada and Versace as well as the latest in contemporary art.
An easy day trip from Milan by train or car is the remarkably diverse province of Lombardy. There are many contrasts in this land named after the Lombards, one of the barbarian tribes that invaded Italy in
the sixth century.
ITALIAN LAKES
A very popular region that is close to the Alps is the Italian lakes. These five major lakes—Lakes Maggiore, Lugano, Como, Iseo and Garda—each have their own distinct personality. They run north to south, enjoy cool summers and mild winters and are offset by fertile farmlands and fields of poplars. They
have long been a retreat for romantics and are also a playground for the
rich and famous, attracted to their picturesque scenery. Lakes Como and Garda are the most popular with tourists. Lake Como (Lago di Como) is the most dramatic of the lakes. It is approximately 30 miles long and three miles across. At 1,345 feet, it is the deepest inland lake in Europe. Shaped like an upside-down Y, Como and Lecco are at the tips of the arms. Bellagio, “la perla del lago” meaning “the pearl of the lake,” sits at the
Kim Mylroie
intersection of the arms. From here you can see the entire span of the lake and savor the fabulous views of the Alps. It is considered by many to be the most beautiful town in all of Europe with its narrow cobbled streets, breathtaking views, impeccable homes and glorious villas. There are many shops to see and wonderful quaint little restaurants to try. Lake Garda, the largest and
the cleanest of the Italian lakes, is extremely popular with northern European tourists who come to enjoy a variety of water sports. Il
Vittoriale, situated on the shores of this lake, was once the home of the flamboyant Italian poet and patriot Gabriele d’Annunzio and is now a shrine to his dreams of Italian imperialism.
Continuing on to the northwest
is the Piedmont region. Due to the influence of the bordering nations
of France and Switzerland, many visitors find this region different from its Italian counterparts, with dramatic Alpine landscapes and non-Italian cultural lifestyles. Turin, the capital of Piedmont with its proximity and century-old ties to France, has a strong Gallic style. Today, it is headquarters for some of Italy’s most successful industries, including the Fiat automobile company. Turin was also chosen as host city for the 2006
Winter Olympics, which further sanctioned its prestige. The ski resort Sestriere hosted many of the Alpine events.
ITALIAN RIVIERA
South of the Piedmont region, on a narrow strip of coastline nestled between the sea and the mountains is the region of Liguria, better known as the Italian Riviera. There are two famous and beautiful coasts on both sides of Genoa. The Riviera di Ponente, the longer of the two, extends from Genoa to France and has more popular resorts. Albenga is one of the most artistic and historical towns that you’ll find on this Riviera. It is surrounded by a well-preserved medieval wall and three large 17th-century gates containing numerous historic monuments and Roman ruins.
The Riviera di Levante, stretching from Genoa toward Tuscany, is known for its breathtaking rocky cliffs and scenic bluffs. Here, visitors will find Portofino, a very chic, tiny waterfront village discovered by wealthy visitors after World War II. Its deep green inlet is bordered on three sides by steep cliffs and is now a berth for luxury yachts. Cinque Terre is a cluster of five charming little fishing villages located in the province of La Spezia: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The mountainsides of the Cinque Terre are heavily terraced and are used to cultivate grapes and olives, but it is also a paradise for walkers. There are well-laid-out walking trails connecting each
village to its neighbors, commanding breathtaking views. Additionally, there is a local train from La Spezia to Genoa and a passenger-ferry
service running between the villages, providing different vantage points to see the rugged coastline. These coastal villages along with the surrounding hillsides are all encapsulated in a national park of the same name and have come to be among the most-visited areas of Italy.
Kim Mylroie
VENICE (Venezia)
Nicknamed the “city of canals,” Venice is built on more than 100 islets, supported by millions of wooden stakes and linked by 400 bridges. It is the only city in the world built entirely on water, making it a dazzling blend of waterways, bridges, tiny alleys, attractive courtyards and brilliant architecture. Bustling St. Mark’s Square lies in the heart of Venice and is one of the most-photographed attractions in the world. The Piazza San Marco is defined by arcades on three sides and St. Mark’s Church on the eastern end. With its café bands and exotic shops under the arcades, it is the hub of tourist Venice.
A prominent feature of the square is the soaring Campanile, a staunch replica of the original tower that collapsed in 1902. Climb to the top and you will enjoy the panoramic view of the city and lagoon. The other tower is Coducci’s ornate Torre dell ’Orologio (Clock Tower) built in 1496, currently undergoing a lengthy restoration. St. Mark’s Basilica, adorned with Byzantine domes and gilded mosaics, is one of the most spectacular churches in the world. It was built in honor of the city’s patron saint, St. Mark, after the Venetians recovered his bones in the ninth century. Located on the eastern end of St. Mark’s Square right next to St. Mark’s Church, the Doge’s Palace is a beautiful Gothic building that used to be the home of the Venetian doges for more than six centuries. Inside the palace, visitors can view the Great Council Hall, the Chamber of the Council of Ten, the torture chamber, prison cells and other rooms. The famous Bridge of Sighs connects the Doge’s Palace with the state prisons. Once tried and convicted in the palace, prisoners were led across
the covered bridge to their cells. The windows on the bridge offered the captive his last glimpse of freedom. In addition to the 400 bridges, Venice is connected by 150 canals. The Grand Canal is the most beautiful “street” in Venice and flows between opulent architecture built mostly between the 12th and the 18th centuries—a gondola ride is definitely a must do in this unique city. Accommodations overlooking the Grand Canal are also highly recommended, as the views and excitement of this thoroughfare are sure to amaze you.
Carnival
The Carnival of Venice is the most important and magnificent of Venetian celebrations. It is a 10-day pre-Lenten extravaganza that attracts thousands of people from around the world each year to the city. Ancient origins of the carnival describe this event as a celebration that greets the passing of winter into spring, a period when everything is apparently connected. Masks originally allowed the nobility to mingle incognito with the common people, as well as the illusion of the more humble classes becoming similar
to the powerful. These days, it is merely an excuse for all-purpose
revelry. Festivities include costumed balls, fireworks displays and historical masked parades throughout Piazza San Marco. All over the city you will find fantasy masks displayed in shop windows, souvenir stalls and charming boutiques appealing to a variety of individual tastes. Most are made from leather, ceramic or papier-mâché. When you’ve exhausted Venice’s beautiful churches and palaces, stop in one of the city’s cheerful osterie (restaurants) tucked away in forgotten little corners. Sample some tira- misu—the rich dessert of mascarpone cheese, Marsala, sponge and chocolate—which was invented here. Also, if you have the time, visit the Palazzo del Cinema where the Venice International Film Festival is held each September.
Island Excursions
Aside from the
historic center of Venice, there is much more to see and explore. Frequent ferry services link Venice throughout the lagoon. Or you can enjoy a half-day excursion of the three main islands with a private water taxi and professional tour guide. Be sure to explore the island of Murano (spread over five islets intertwined with canals), which is famous for its glass blowing industry, including the Museo Vetrario with exquisite samples of the fine craft. Burano is a colorful island where the canals are flanked with brightly painted houses and the island is known primarily for its famous lace works. Visitors will be charmed by the artistic ambience and casual welcome here. Torcello, the least populated and most remote island (an hour by ferry) has remains of the first Venetian community and the first cathedral of Italy.
FLORENCE
Florence (Firenze), the capital of the Tuscany region is also the birthplace of the Renaissance. With the city’s wealth of original art treasures still remaining in the city, Florence
is the ideal destination for not only students of Renaissance art and architecture, but also visitors looking to trace the development of this amazing artistic talent of the 15th century. Some of the delights of Florence include:
Museo dell ’Opera del Duomo is a restored and expanded museum full of amazing sculptures such as Donatello’s “Mary
Magdalene” carved in wood in the 1460s and Michelangelo’s “Pieta.”
Palazzo Vecchio is the town hall
of Florence. It contains vast frescoes
painted by Vasari and various mementos of other prominent Florentines.
The Uffizi, built alongside the Palazzo Vecchio, is now a famous
art gallery that contains the greatest collection of Italian art in the world.
Ponte Vecchio is the bridge that was built in 1345 en route to the Pitti Palace. It housed workshops that were used by butchers and tanners. Today it is now occupied by jewelers and shops filled with trinkets.
Galleria dell ’Accademia contains a wonderful collection of art including Michelangelo’s most famous work, “David.”
TUSCANY
If you think you’ve had your fill of Florentine pictures and frescoes, and need a break from the hot, bustling city, a quick escape to Tuscany is
a welcome treat. Here you’ll find a more refreshing and cooler atmosphere with rolling green landscapes and soft red wines throughout the countryside. The elaborate decoration and strong architecture within its historic cities also form an important part of the region’s appeal. A short ride from Florence (little more than an hour) to Siena will take you past several charming towns and wine estates in the Chianti Classico region. These hills are dominated by rows of vines growing predominantly Sangiovese grapes that are pressed to make
Chianti wines. Many vineyards surrounding medieval castles offer wine tasting and cooking courses—a perfect way to learn how to appreciate its famous red wines and olive oils. Amid the steep hills you’ll find the Castello del Trebbio, one of the country villas and
castles that Kim Mylroie enjoyed. Bordered by olive groves and grapevines, guests are
welcome to stroll through the estate and winery and feast on any of the delicacies they find, such as mushrooms, figs, apples, kiwifruit, nuts or peaches. Without a doubt, one of the most fascinating towns in Tuscany is San Gimignano. The countless medieval towers there have maintained their appearance since the Middle Ages, despite the vast number of visitors. The main street, which is always bustling with tourists, is filled with shops selling quality crafts and souvenirs, as well as locally produced wines and wild boar ham. Pisa is another treat. All the main attractions lie within the northwestern area of the city walls, around Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles). The architecture of the cathedral and baptistry is evident of Islamic influence. The Battistero
was built in 1260 in the same Pisan Romanesque style as the cathedral. In 2001, the Leaning Tower re-opened to the public. Visits are now limited to 30 people at a time and lines develop quickly, so book in advance.
ROME
Most European cities offer a number of worthwhile attractions, but Rome tops them all with an unlimited array of options. Wander through the lush Orti Farnesiani, the botanical gardens on the slopes overlooking the Forum. With their formal landscaping, the sounds of fountains and birds, you can relax, sketch or picnic and marvel at the scenic views of Rome. Or meander through the ruins of Villa Adriana (Emperor Hadrian’s
Villa), once the largest and richest in the Roman Empire, occupying more than 180 acres below the foothills on which Tivoli stands. Other key sights include:
Vatican City Covering a total area of slightly more than 100 acres, the Vatican City is not only a truly spiritual place but also is impressive for its grandeur, art and symbolic significance. Don’t miss the Vatican Museum and its Sistine Chapel, whose ceiling is home to Michelangelo’s mural masterpiece. The city also includes St. Peter’s, the biggest church in the world. The vast interior is 610 feet long with a capacity for approximately 60,000 people.
Colosseum Known to the ancient Romans as the “Flavian Amphitheatre” this symbol of the Roman Empire was
host to 450 years of gladiators, lion feedings and games. After its restoration in 2001, it re-mains one of the impressive sights
of Rome.
Trevi Fountain The most grandiose and famous of Rome’s baroque fountains, the “Fontana di Trevi” is the place to stir romance. Legend has it by throwing a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, you will return to Rome.
Spanish Steps the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by. Both tourists and locals can be seen sitting and relaxing on the steps that overlook the piazza. Off this piazza stretch the most fashionable shopping streets in Rome, where you’ll find Italian designers like Armani, Versace, Prada and Gianfranco Ferré.
Kim Mylroie
Pantheon Nearly 2,000 years after its construction, this second-century pagan temple to the gods is the best preserved of all ancient Roman buildings. The only light is provided by a large hole set in the center of the dome, which means that the building has been open to the elements for all these years and is remarkably still intact.
ITALIAN FOOD & WINE
Rather than rush through the cities and towns of Italy, take some time to really experience what each has to offer. Every city
is rich in history and art, and not only do they have their own distinctive cuisine, but wines as well. As you travel throughout this fascinating country, savor the best of authentic Italian cuisine, and allow time to explore the culture and daily life
of the area.
