As Santa Fe’s nickname, “The City Different,” indicates, the mini-metropolis in north-central New Mexico isn’t the usual thing. The oldest capital city in the nation, Santa Fe offers
a unique combination of Southwestern charm, a burgeoning art scene and flavorful cuisine inspired by many different cultures. So if you’re seeking a change of scene this fall, head to the high desert to discover why Santa Fe ranks
among the top tourist destinations in the United States.
A COLORFUL HISTORY
Santa Fe is known for its friendly citizens, so it’s surprising that the city has a history of frontier violence. For hundreds of years, corn-growing Pueblo Indians inhabited Santa Fe. But during the mid-16th century, Spanish expeditions from Mexico began closing in on the region. Between 1607 and 1692, Spanish soldiers tried to conquer and convert the Pueblos, with bloody results. The Native Americans revolted against the estimated 2,500 Spanish colonists, killing 400 of them and driving the rest back into Mexico. The conquering Pueblos attacked Santa Fe and burned most of the buildings. They occupied Santa Fe until 1692, when the region was re-conquered by the Spanish. Under Spanish rule, Santa Fe grew and prospered, despite constant conflicts between the Spanish authorities and the Native Americans. In 1821, Mexico gained its
independence from Spain, and American trappers and traders moved into the region. Mexico gave New Mexico to the United States in 1848 after the end of the Mexican-American War. Today, Santa Fe’s rich history can be traced through its architecture—notably the clay-and-straw adobes of the Pueblos (a style also adopted by the Spanish) and the wooden cottages of the early American residents. In recent decades, Santa Fe passed a modern zoning code that mandates the use of adobe-style architecture for new buildings in an effort to preserve the city’s cultural heritage.
For more information about Santa Fe’s history, spend an afternoon at the Museum of New Mexico located at the Palace of the Governors, a National Historic Landmark. For a Native American perspective, visit the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, where a multimedia exhibition merges the contemporary Native American experience with historical accounts and artifacts.
GETTING ACQUAINTED
Santa Fe is a maze of narrow, winding lanes and one-way streets, making it difficult to navigate. The best way to get a feel for the city is to sign up for a guided tour. Several companies offer walking tours, including A Well-Born Guide and Afoot in Santa Fe. A short tour generally lasts about two hours. The heart of Santa Fe is The Plaza, a giant outdoor mall filled with benches, shade trees and gazebos as well as shops, restaurants and galleries. Here, teenagers and tourists mingle with executives on their lunch breaks and artisans selling their wares. Marking the official western end of the historic Santa Fe Trail, The Plaza is widely recognized as the best place in the city to people-watch.
Venture beyond the city limits and you’ll discover that Santa Fe is surrounded by almost two acres of national forest. Weather permitting, this expansive outdoor area offers opportunities for rafting, mountain climbing, hiking and many other activities. Skiing is popular during the winter months when the Santa Fe Ski Basin is open, part of the majestic Sangre de Cristo mountain range. The skiing isn’t quite as good as in nearby Taos, but a day on the slopes offers the same bright sunshine and powdery snow.
Before you head off on an outdoor adventure, you might want to spend a day or two getting acclimatized. Because of the 7,000-foot elevation, just walking around Santa Fe can be strenuous. It is also worth journeying out of the city to explore the many Native American pueblos (villages) located a short drive away throughout the valley of the Rio Grande.
A HAVEN FOR ARTISTS AND ART LOVERS
Santa Fe has long been a center for art—first by Native Americans, then
Spanish colonizers and finally by the hundreds of “bohemians” who flocked there beginning in the 1920s. The city has a profusion of galleries and more than a dozen art museums, including one devoted to Georgia O’Keefe, who made New Mexico’s landscapes famous. There are galleries scattered throughout the city, but if you’re pressed for time, head straight for Canyon Road, Santa Fe’s renowned art district. It is easy to fill an afternoon or longer wandering up this colorful street, which features some 80 galleries on either side. Two galleries that shouldn’t be missed are Canyon Road Fine Art, which represents a variety of artists and genres; and Morning Star Gallery, featuring antique Native American art from more than 50 tribes.
For an introduction to the greater Canyon Road area, join the walking tour that takes place every Monday at 10 a.m. During the two-hour tour, a guide describes the artists who have made Santa Fe the second largest art market in the United States. Tickets are $18. Call 505-988-8022 for reservations. Another don’t-miss activity for art lovers is a visit to the Sante Fe Museum of Fine Arts, where work by artists from New Mexico and elsewhere has been exhibited for more than 85 years.
NEW MEXICAN CUISINE
One of the best things about Santa Fe is the fiery, flavorful food—a unique fusion of Native American, Mexican and European cultures. For centuries, the people of New Mexico depended on four crops: corn, beans, squash and chile peppers. These ingredients still factor prominently into the local cuisine today. Red, yellow and distinctive blue corn is used in tortillas, breads and many other staples. Yet the food that gets the most attention is used in much smaller doses: the chile pepper. Ranging from rich smoky poblanos, to slightly fruity serranos, to spicy jalapenos, chilies are such a widespread ingredient in New Mexican cuisine that they have been dubbed the official state vegetable.
Over the years, the availability
of foods from around the world, coupled with experimentation by innovative chefs, has led to the development of what is called New Southwest Cuisine. This fresh approach on New Mexican cooking combines locally grown ingredients with indigenous crops and wild game to produce new combinations based on traditional recipes (think corn chowder with green chile croutons and Mexican chocolate cake). For a fun, interactive sampling of a Santa Fe-style menu, sign up for a one-day class at the internationally-
acclaimed Santa Fe School of Cooking. Students can choose from a variety of classes taught by some of Santa Fe’s best chefs, with menus focusing on traditional New Mexican, Native American, Mexican, Spanish or New Southwest cuisine. Come hungry; students get to feast on the fruits (and other foods) of their labor at the end of class. If a less labor-intensive meal is in order, treat yourself to a dinner you will never forget at Geronimo Restaurant, New Mexico’s only Mobil 4-Star, AAA 4-Diamond-rated dining establishment. Housed in a 250-year-old hacienda, the restaurant specializes in “global fusion Southwest-
influenced cuisine” and is known as the place to see and be seen in Santa Fe. For more casual fare, check out The Shed, one of the city’s oldest restaurants or The Pink Adobe, located across the street from San Miguel Mission, the oldest church in the United States.
FUN FOR KIDS, TOO
Worried about taking young ones to
a city famous for its art galleries and shopping? Don’t be; the Santa Fe area offers plenty for them to explore and enjoy. Here are five top kid-friendly activities.
Santa Fe Southern Railway Kids and parents can ride this 120-year-old railroad from Sante Fe to Lamy and back through the scenic New Mexico countryside.
888-989-8600 www.sfsr.com
Santa Fe Children’s Museum Aimed at kids ages 2 through 12,
the museum offers activities for the whole family, including interactive exhibits and an outdoor garden. 505-989-8359
www.santafechildrensmuseum.org
Genoveva Chavez Community Center Kids will enjoy the ice skating rink and indoor kiddie pool with slides, while parents can squeeze in a workout at the fitness center.
505-955-4001 www.chavezcenter.com
El Rancho de Las
Golondrinas This historic ranch, which dates back to the early 1700s, features “villagers” clothed in the style of the times, demonstrating how life was lived in early New Mexico. 505-471-2261 www.golondrinas.org
Wildlife West Nature Park For an up-close look at native plants and animals and a spectacular view of three mountain ranges, visit this 122-acre wildlife refuge and zoo in the nearby town of Edgewood. 505-281-7655 www.wildlifewest.org
Santa Fe’s dry climate and 300-plus days of sunshine a year make
it a pleasant place to visit year-round. For more information about planning your trip, visit the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau Web site at www.santafe.org.
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